Wine of the Day, No. 376
Bigger Than Your Head
May 1, 2018
By Fredric Koeppel
A whimsical name belies a seriously well-made sparkling wine in the Inman Family “Whole Buncha Bubbles” Blanc de Noirs 2014, Russian River Valley. Made completely from pinot noir grapes, as is the tradition for blanc de noirs, derived from the winery’s OGV Estate vineyard and aged three years on the lees, this champagne-method sparkler offers a very pale straw-gold hue and an abundant radiant shimmer of tiny bubbles. Alluring scents of jasmine, smoke and steel, roasted lemons and pears unfurl just a hint of fresh-baked brioche. as well as notes of quince and ginger, seashell and heather. The whole construct is elegant, delicate and fine-boned, like a china tea cup so thin that it’s almost translucent, yet there is no mistaking the tensile foundation in flint and limestone minerality nor the clean acidity that lends the structure a crisp, chiseled aura. 12 percent alcohol. A real pleasure to drink, now through 2022 to ’24. Winemaker was Kathleen Inman. Production was 166 cases. Excellent. About $68.
A sample for review.